Reflection from Sachsenhausen- after the dust settled.

On Sunday, our visit to the concentration camp left me with an overwhelming feeling of dispair.  Because most of the camp had been destroyed, we were warned that we would have to "use our imagination" and yet, upon visiting, it was crystal clear just how horrendous life must have been for the victims.  The wind was blowing and it was raining on and off...an eery reminder of just how dark our surroundings were. When we went inside one of the living quarters, I was shocked to learn that around 200 victims were forced to live on top of each other in a space that was just a little bit bigger than my apartment.  Every day was the same and while the days involved role call, work, punishment, etc. it was thinking about people during the night that really made me so upset.  We learned that the Nazi's were known to barge in and wake people up to torture them at all hours of the night.  The days were so very miserable for them that it was hard to think that even at night, there was not even a couple of hours where one could escape within their dreams and have some peace (either because of the cold, the amount of people, or the Nazi's constantly coming in and out).  I kept thinking how shocked I was that anyone could survive a week in such conditions, let alone months and even years.  When we visited the crematorium, I was so very sad to think about how scary the last moments must have been for so many. It was so unfair.  I thought about all that happens when someone dies in our lives and how we recognize their life through a funeral, and offer support and love to the family days, weeks and even years after the death so they can mourn.  How could so many have spent their final moments in one place? kept going through my mind.  At the museum, I learned that when the victims would arrive at the camp, the Nazi's would purposely give them the wrong size uniform (either too big or too small) to make them look and feel ridiculous.  As if every other aspect of their life was not miserable enough, I couldn't believe the Nazi's were actually thinking about finding EVERY way possible to punish these people.  I kept thinking...enough already!  And yet it just kept going on.   I was so grateful to have the opportunity to return back to the hotel and have our group discussion.  So often, when you get so many smart and educated people together, such discussions can turn into debates and become quite confrontational. I was amazed at how kind and respectful each member was to every person in our group.  It was a safe space for us to process such a heavy day and really brought us so much closer

Who is a Jew?

Who Is A Jew?

A fact that has surprised many of us during the trip is the general German Jewish Community’s choice to only recognize as Jews those people with Jewish mothers.  We were told that this is because the Jewish Community is predominantly Orthodox and so the decision is driven by Halacha (Rabbinical Jewish law).  What is ironic here is the fact that the Nazis defined “Jewish” – through the Nuremberg Laws – as having at least one Jewish grandparent.  Therefore, a significant proportion of the six million people classified and murdered by the Nazis as Jewish would not be considered Jewish by the Orthodox Jewish Community.  The State of Israel’s “law of return” is based on the Nuremberg Laws in that any person who would have been targeted as a Jew by the Nazi regime has the right to make Aliyah to Israel and become an Israeli citizen.  It is ironic and problematic, therefore, that the German Jewish Community – and certain other Jewish communities around the world for that matter – does not recognize as Jewish those who do not have a Jewish mother but who identify as Jewish.  We have more about this subject to discuss and some of us have talked about bringing up this topic when we meet young Jewish Germans on tomorrow evening.

A Taste of Germany

After an “interesting” lunch at Old Western, (an American-style restaurant that served ribs, salads, and burgers pinned together with American flags, and displayed an “Aunt Jemima” statue in the entrance), we were let loose to explore Rostock’s city center.  Rostock had an old European town flavor, with narrow cobble-stoned streets lined with boutiques and, most importantly, food vendors.  The foods we tried included: fried cauliflower with cheese sauce, licorice, fried dough, Nutella and banana crepes, ice-cream, Bratwursts, cotton candy, steamy fresh bread, and the token “Gummy” store with a German flare.  It would be unfair to exclude mentioning our favorite fashion store, T-K Maxx.  The overall consensus of the group is that we didn’t want to leave, but time was not on our hands and we made our way to Hamburg (while eating the steamy fresh bread)…

Reflection

Random thoughts from Germany (thus far)

I never knew the difference between the word Holocaust and Shoah.  In fact, I’ve used them interchangeably many times.  However, one of the reoccurring themes of this trip has been the definition of the word Holocaust and the controversy behind it.  I never knew this word was controversial…and for those that are reading this (there are people reading this, right?!?!), I will give some examples.  The Shoah refers only to the Jews being persecuted while Holocaust refers to all groups, including homosexuals, Sinti/Roma (gypsies), the disabled, etc.

When we heard from one of the speakers yesterday, who sits on an international Holocaust education task force, we quickly realized that the word Holocaust still does not have a defined meaning, which is in my opinion shameful.  Basically, the international community does not educate on all the different groups that were discriminated against and the task force tries not to define the word Holocaust because of the backlash that it may cause.  Backlash you ask?  Of stating the truth?  Of explaining history and how it happened?  Why are we now able to define it for the Jews but are finding it difficult to explain what happened to others?  In doing so, are we ourselves becoming “denyers?” I will leave these questions unanswered as from reading this you can already understand my opinion.  However, I’m finding it hard to grasp and the only thing that continues to permeate with me are the fine words of the wise Rabbi Hillel…”If I am not for others, who will be for me?” (or something like that…dammit it’s getting late here)

Xenophobia and Anti-Semitism in Modern Germany

Tuesday, March 22^nd: Blog Entry Number 5

Today’s formal theme was Xenophobia and Anti-Semitism in modern-day Germany. It was a long day, but we came out with a better perspective on both of these critical issues, which affect Jews throughout Germany and Europe.

Our day began at the Neue Synagogue, where we enjoyed Shabbat Services Friday. It was nice to return. We were able to view the exhibition, which featured artifacts from the original structure. These included Judaica, photos, and architectural elements. The synagogue was a glorious structure, Berlin’s largest, with 3,200 seats. The controversial architecture was taken from Moorish Spain, specifically the Ali Hambra. While the main sanctuary was badly damaged during the war, the front exterior has been restored, including the iconic dome, a Berlin landmark.

Following this, we began the series of formal presentations at the Centrum Judaicum, which is adjacent to the synagogue. The first speaker, Ralf Oberndorfer, gave an overview of the postwar efforts to bring the perpetrators of the Shoah to justice. We found it shocking that many former Nazis presided over the West German tribunals. And it would not be until the Auschwitz Trials in the 60’s that the Nazis were accused of genocide, as opposed to garden variety criminality.  Mr. Oberndorfer also commented that the Catholic Church helped many Nazis, including Adolf Eichmann, escape after Germany’s defeat. But because the Vatican will not open its archives, the world will never know the true extent of the church’s complicity.

After a brief break, we had the pleasure of hearing from Cornelia Schmalz-Jacobsen. She spoke about her personal efforts to combat right-wing extremism in modern-day Germany. Mrs. Jacobsen has faced tremendous resistance, receiving death threats and hate mail. Yet she continues to coordinate efforts to stifle the extremist threat. The most moving part of her presentation came during the question-and-answer session, when a participant asked about her parents’ designation as “Righteous Among the Nation” by Yad Vashem. She told us that they were instrumental in saving the lives of somewhere between 100-300 Jews during the Shoah. Her parents did not view this as a heroic act; rather, they saw it as the right thing to do. This moved us deeply and showed us how ordinary people can do extraordinary things.

After a delicious kosher lunch, the presentations resumed with Matthias Adrian. Participants were apprehensive going in, as Mr. Adrian was a former right-wing extremist. We learned how his beliefs fed off of his ignorance and how his parents  (and grandparents) encouraged his extremism through misinformation (such as Jews being responsible for the death of Jesus, justifying their suffering). Since he left the movement, Mr. Adrian has been involved with EXIT Deutschland, which helps reform political extremists. It is admirable that he committed himself to this organization. Related to this is the upcoming ADL Event featuring Frank Meeick, an American Neo-Nazi who has also left the movement. The stories of these two men shows that it is possible to change one’s ways and end hate.

Following a brief coffee break, we heard from Lev Liebeskind, representing the Task Force for International Cooperation on Holocaust Education, Remembrance, and Research. The task force, started in 1998 in Sweden, includes 27 member countries. Participants were critical of Mr. Liebeskind’s discussion of the “Jewish Holocaust,” which excludes many other victim groups, including gays and the Roma & Sinti. Some also expressed skepticism that countries genuinely wish to be members of the task force, but are solely interested in publicity. For example, Turkey may view its membership as a way to divert attention from the Armenian genocide.

The final panel of the day included Toby Axelrod and Malte Holler, who discussed anti-semitic crime in Germany.  While hate speech is illegal in Germany, there it still exists in many regions. There is, however, much less physical violence than rhetoric. Mr. Holler develops programs to combat this anti-semitism and xenophobia. Ms. Axelrod affirmed that hate crimes are limited, at least in Berlin, and that Jewish life is doing well in the city. We applaud the educational efforts of both the panelists, which dovetail with those of the ADL.

Following this presentation, we left the Centrum Judaicum and returned to the hotel for a break. Dinner, at Café Organge, featured Wolker Beck, a member of Germany’s Green Party. Beyond conversing with us throughout, Mr. Beck offered formal remarks about three issues: (1) reparations for Shoah survivors; (2) LGBT issues; and (3) human rights. On the second point, Mr. Beck noted that Germany does not have hate crime laws, although courts can impose more severe punishments for targeted acts. We appreciated Mr. Beck’s time and candor.

After dinner, we returned to the hotel, well fed, but fatigued. Many packed and went to sleep early, in anticipation of an early rise. Rostock and Hamburg await. In reflecting on what we learned throughout the course of our day, a number of questions arose:

1)   With respect to Mr. Adrian, the former extremist: did he have a violent past?

2)   How should governments define the Holocaust? Does the current definition exclude many of the victims?

3)   With respect to Mr. Beck, are victim reparations appropriate? Can a price be put on human suffering?

4)   How will Germany address the marginalization of Turkish immigrants in German society?

5)   What kind of threat do the extremist parties of Hungary and Austria pose to European Jewry? Should Germany do more to combat this growing anti-semitism and xenophobia?

6)   Should Germany create separate Holocaust memorials for different victims groups (such as women)?  Should events be memorialized or their victims?

7)   How can German-Israeli relations be strengthened, in the wake of the East Jerusalem settlement controversy, formally denounced by the government?

We hope that in the coming days these and many more will get answered.  The picture becomes clearer, with each new experience.

Amy Berger

Barry Le Vine

Perry Meyers

Es ist dem drei Tage im Deutschland (It is the third day in Germany)

We began our third day in Germany with a guided bus tour throughout Berlin.   Itay Lotem, our Israeli born, British raised, & Berlin resident, was our tour guide.  Itay speaks 9 languages – English, Hebrew, German, French, Polish, Russian, Czech, Swedish, and Norwegian (although he claims his Norwegian isn’t that good). This was our first opportunity to learn about and see Berlin outside of our Mitte neighborhood.  Highlights of our tour include:

·      Berlin Wall (now a canvas for various artists called the East Side Gallery)

·      Museum Island

·      The first ever traffic light (It has four lights, the fourth of which is blue so that the operator could indicate when he was away using the restroom)

·      Hotel Adlon (site of Michael Jackson hanging his son “Blanket” over his balcony)

·      Brandenburg Gate

·      Tiergarten (Berlin’s large central park)

We ended our tour at the Federal Foreign Office where we had a 5-star lunch at the International Club where many diplomats dined.  The highlight of the meal included a dessert and palette cleanser of basil lemon sorbet.  We then met with Dr. Ralf Mathias Reusch who discussed the three pillars of German foreign policy: Diplomatic relations, Economic relations, and Cultural relations – the focus of the session.  Dr. Reusch talked about how cultural relations build international relationships, prevent conflict, and create positive economic effects for Germany.

Our next stop was Parliament, where we met with Dietmar Nietan, a member of the Socialist Democratic Party (Historically this was the only party to vote against Hitler and the Nazi policies (excluding the Communists)).  He deals with external issues with the European Union as well the United States and Israel.   Mr. Nietan is active with the Slave Labor Compensation Fund which pays reparations to Holocaust survivors and ensures the future of Holocaust education.  He also discussed a range of other subjects including Hamas, Iran’s nuclear ambitions and the Armenian genocide. 

After this discussion, we went up to the glass dome of the Reichstag which provided a captivating 360 degree view of Berlin. 

The final session of our day was led by our very own program participant Danny Cohen, who is pursuing his PhD at Northwestern in Learning Sciences, and specifically focuses on Holocaust education. Danny’s workshop took a look at the ways various groups were discriminated against during WWII and how they are remembered and recognized today as Holocaust victims. Although the majority of Holocaust victims were Jewish, we discussed how the other targeted groups (homosexuals, Scinti, Roma, Catholics, Jehovas Witnesses, political dissidents, and several others) and survivors from this group, should be represented as well in Holocaust education efforts.  

The day ended at Restaurant Oranium where we had the chance to dine, drink, and talk with German peers.

Day Three- The More I Know, The Less I Understand

Visiting Sachsenhausen is like walking in the footsteps of death.

The evil was in the details.
The doctors were more sadistic than the guards.

16 tons of ashes.

Did you know they brought prostitutes to the camp?
These women were victimized- twice.
Some were raped 30 times a day.
They werent Jewish- no one wanted to spread the "Jewish disease".

I feel a tremendous amount of shame visiting the camp.

I dont know if visiting the camp brings be closer to or further away from understanding.

We Germans don't trust each other anymore.

We are always concerned of what we were capable of then, and what we are capable of now.

How could they build a police station on the camp grounds?

Should there be a memorial for the perpetrators?

Where would I have been?

Maybe it isn't black and white.
Maybe there are shades of grade.

What am I supposed to do with this burning feeling inside me?
How can I remember this the way I am supposed to?

How can I teach this?

How does this impact my Jewish narrative?

Who am I because of this?

If Sachsenhausen was underwelming, I don't want to be overwhelmed.